We had planned for many months to reach four remote tundra wildfires in mid West Greenland to study their impacts on soils, vegetation, carbon and micro-climate. Getting to them was the first challenge. It took us several very bumpy boat rides and some days of hiking with heavy packs. We camped at our research sites in tents, with lots of equipment, freeze-dried food and an inreach. When the boat threatened to get stuck in the river, we carried it across the rapids. Luckily, but coincidentally, most of the fires had started along the popular and epic Arctic Circle Trail, so we could follow a well established path and sometimes sleep in one of the huts. This was for sure my most adventurous campaign ever!

On the way to our drop off point we pass by the tiny village of Sarfannguit, population around 80. Many more people used to live in villages, but some during the past century people were ordered to move to larger settlements like Sisimiut.
We wait in the fjord until the tides have risen far enough to carry us onto the river Itinneq. Boat driver Sven wonders whether he should set out his nets for Arctic char.
Meanwhile we enjoy the views and flowers.
The water level in the river is so low that we need to drag the boat upstream for many kilometres.
No easy task!
It is 2am or 3am when we finally arrive at our destination. After a very short night and a quick plunge in the lake, we walk towards the nearest ACT road marker and set off to our first fire site.
It is easy to find; the tundra is still a rusty colour where it has burned, due to the moss Ceratodon purpureus becoming very dominant in early successional stages.
Our first camp is right inside a fire scar!
After four days of fieldwork and a canoe trip, it is time to get hiking again!
We arrive at the Iqattoq cabin
Basic but cosy
Also here, it is easy to see where the fire burned 10 years ago
Chamaerion latifolium or dwarf fireweed, national flower of Kalaallit Nunaat
Two more days of fieldwork (we are getting more efficient!) and then it is time to hike to our pick up location, or which we go off trail
We reach our pickup site after a steep and challenging descent, and find an idyllic little beach. Of course I didn’t hesitate to go for a plunge
Passing Sarfannguit again on the way back
Humpback whales!

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