This fieldwork campaign on Svalbard in the summer of 2023 was perhaps my most significant Arctic research trip so far. It was not only my longest fieldwork to date (2 full months), that included a new personal “furthest north” record, but also the first trip I had gotten funded and planned entirely independently. And perhaps most importantly, it felt like a final reckoning with setbacks and personal challenges I had had to deal with in the years leading up to it.

In June, the tundra was still emerging from under the snow and we experienced some last snowfall in Longyearbyen. Long days out in the field during which we were sitting still to count tiny emerging leaf shoots and read out sensors were beautiful but also a challenge. We needed every single layer of clothing we had brought.

Our experimental sites are still emerging from under the snow in early June
Stopping by the beach in Longyearbyen after my first fieldwork day
Our research site in Endalen, also mostly snow covered in early June
Slowly the snow will start disappearing from the mountaintops over summer

By late June much of the snow had disappeared from the valleys. Our research sites were snow free and our fieldwork was in full operation. Due to high snow accumulation in spring and hence late snowmelt, many areas were very wet or flooded. Mysterious misty days alternated with periods of bright sun and (for Svalbard) very high temperatures. Some days we were wondering how much sense it still made to carry forth our experiment, which consisted of supplying extra water to simulate heavy rainfall, in plots that were already so wet. Other days we took off and enjoyed hikes and a boat cruise.

Mist over our field site in Adventdalen. The small tents were put up to trap and sample insects emerging from the tundra soil over the summer season
Very wet tundra surrounding the old cable station at the mouth of Endalen
A little dream house, seen from a boat trip through Isfjorden

By July the mountaintops became less and less white, and our shadows became noticeably taller on late nights. Still, it would still be many weeks before the sun would set for the first time again. Fieldwork data was trickling in, and I found time to go on a small cabin trip to Bjorndalen.

Cabin trip to Bjorndalen, later in July
Hiking to Fuglefjella
.. and making it to the top
Cottongrass (Eriophorum scheuchzerii) in Adventdalen
.. make a wish

I spent a beautiful week in Ny-Alesund shortly before returning home. Although I missed the darkness at night, the trees and many people back at home, it was still very hard to leave this beautiful archipelago on the very last day of July. It is starting to feel like a new home.

Looking out over over Ny-Alesund and Kongsfjorden from my fieldwork site
Ny-Alesund
With the most amazing dinner view a village could possibly have

A walk in Endalen and food and drinks with friends filled my final weekend on Svalbard. It was rainy and cloudy all day in Longyearbyen and Adventdalen, but somehow Endalen had some mysterious spots of sunlight shining through. Can you imagine how hard it was to leave Svalbard with amazing scenes like this..?

So I prefer to just say “See you soon, Svalbard!”..

2 responses

  1. Kenneth Avatar
    Kenneth

    Thanks for sharing of these inspiring impressions and photos ! This is National Geographic stuff . Amazing tranquil environment, how do you expect the landscape to respond to global warming? And ecosystems, do you see an increase of thermophylic species? And trekking birds? Good luck and dnjoyment!

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    1. runamag Avatar
      runamag

      Thank you so much Kenneth! Yes, it is amazing and inspiring.. I feel truly blessed!

      There is obviously a lot going on in terms of global warming. Svalbard and the surrounding oceans are the fastest warming regions on the planet. The landscape responds with changes in the progression of seasons, deeper thaw of permafrost, rapid retreat of glaciers, hydrological extremes, disturbances [.. I could continue].

      High Arctic vegetation can be quite resilient to warming and extreme conditions in general; they have always had to be. And Svalbard is of course quite geographically isolated. Many of the thermophilic species that grow there are still very rare and confined to specific spots. I am really not so sure exactly how plant communities will deal with these unprecedented rates of warming… Especially if they’re also nutrient limited. Need to read up on that.. But apart from increasing temperatures, the ecosystem (incl. migratory birds, plant phenology, etc) will have to deal with increased weather variability and unpredictability. In temperatures, snowmelt timing, hydrology, etc.. Recent observations from Greenland suggest that recently phenological processes show increasing variability as well, rather than gradual shifts.

      Now that we are gathering a multi-year observations an growth proxies (tree rings) under manipulation of rainfall patterns and I hope to shed some more light on the role of rainfall and hydrology in this response 🙂

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