I think I must have been 10 or so when I first visited Þórsmörk, an area of mountain ridges and valleys sheltered in between glaciers in Iceland. There were so many mountains to climb, a glacier that was accessible with a day’s walk and many beautiful birch woods with wildflowers. Going back in 2021 the region was still stupidly beautiful, although I was sad to see how far the glaciers had receded. We could not reach them anymore as we had before.