The place I have done most of my Arctic fieldwork, the Kytalyk reserve. It takes two regular planes (Netherlands to Moscow, Moscow to Yakutsk), an old Antonov plane (Yakutsk to Chokurdakh), a 2.5hr speedboat trip and nine time zones to get here. The station has a small sauna, an occasional trace of cellphone reception and several cabins, but no internet or running water. After a week or two, you stop missing the internet. After six weeks or so, you start to dread the day you open your inbox and wonder whether you should maybe just stay.
The Chokurdakh Scientific Tundra StationShrinking and swelling sediments in the river floodplainAn enormous exposed ice wedge at the side of a thaw lake. Here you can see, smell (rotten!) and hear (drip.. drip..) the permafrost thawA dwarf birch seedling and cottongrass tuft on a carpet of peat mossUsing the rowing boat to explore the Konsor-Syane riverWalking back to the station after a day tripCottongrass bathing in the sunlightA loney alder shrub (Alnus viridis subs. arctosibirica), the only one in the wide surroundings. Probably somehow related to the old reindeer herders settlement next to it.Patterned ground on the tundraWillow (Salix pulchra) in the midnight sun
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